Difficulty
Moderate
Steps
12
Time Required
45 minutes
Sections
1
- Xbox One Wireless Controller (Model 1914) Full Disassembly
- 12 steps
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BackXbox One Wireless Controller (Model 1914)
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Introduction
What you need
Step 1
Remove batteries
- Remove the batteries, then hold the Xbox button for a few seconds to drain any remaining power.
- This will make sure you don’t shock yourself or short the device.
Remove the batteries, then hold the Xbox button for a few seconds to drain any remaining power.
This will make sure you don’t shock yourself or short the device.
1024
Step 2
Opening the device
- The second step is to remove the side plate that pushes into your palm. I use an Ifixit plectrum and an opening tool.
- The clips that hold the side can be a bit confusing, but starting from the far end can help
- Try pushing a plectrum deep inside the plastic and wobble up and down until you hear a click, then leave it in and do the same on the other side
The second step is to remove the side plate that pushes into your palm. I use an Ifixit plectrum and an opening tool.
The clips that hold the side can be a bit confusing, but starting from the far end can help
Try pushing a plectrum deep inside the plastic and wobble up and down until you hear a click, then leave it in and do the same on the other side
Step 3
Removing the front and backplate
- Remove 5 screws shown on the picture using the T8 bit.
- The one in the middle is underneath the sticker in the battery bay. You can push the screwdriver bit through the sticker, or peel it away.
- Please note that this makes both the front and backplate completly loose form the controller.
Remove 5 screws shown on the picture using the T8 bit.
The one in the middle is underneath the sticker in the battery bay. You can push the screwdriver bit through the sticker, or peel it away.
Please note that this makes both the front and backplate completly loose form the controller.
Step 4
Joysticks and d-pad
- Now the front plate is removed we can also remove the backplate and see a nice five night at freddy’s controller.
- If you only need to swap the joysticks you can just pull them off, replace, and reassemble.
- Or if you just want to replace the d-pad you can lift the metal ring up and just pick it up and replace it.
- If you are going further in the guide, you do need to remove the joysticks, but can leave the d-pad in place.
Now the front plate is removed we can also remove the backplate and see a nice five night at freddy’s controller.
If you only need to swap the joysticks you can just pull them off, replace, and reassemble.
Or if you just want to replace the d-pad you can lift the metal ring up and just pick it up and replace it.
If you are going further in the guide, you do need to remove the joysticks, but can leave the d-pad in place.
Step 5
Removing the sync button plate
- Now we are going to take off the little plate between the bumpers to futher access the controller.
- Start by pushing the two little plastic pieces on either side of the xbox on/off button.
- Just push the little pieces up and away from the controller (plate may shoot away so hold it a little).
- (sorry for blurry pics)
Now we are going to take off the little plate between the bumpers to futher access the controller.
Start by pushing the two little plastic pieces on either side of the xbox on/off button.
Just push the little pieces up and away from the controller (plate may shoot away so hold it a little).
(sorry for blurry pics)
Step 6
Removing the bumpers
- To remove the bumper, on either sides are little pieces of platic just like the ones we just undid, just push it away from the controller. I like to use the screwdriver for this ones since its a little smaller and gets behind the plastic easier.
- I also added a pic of the bumper so you can see how it looks if you need to buy a new one (mine broke within a year).
To remove the bumper, on either sides are little pieces of platic just like the ones we just undid, just push it away from the controller. I like to use the screwdriver for this ones since its a little smaller and gets behind the plastic easier.
I also added a pic of the bumper so you can see how it looks if you need to buy a new one (mine broke within a year).
Step 7
Removing the trigger caps
- Next we are going to remove the trigger caps. Use a T6 bit for this.
- Remove the screws on the backsides of the caps and just gently push the plastic around the trigger from the outside towards the inside
- Be careful of the small gray rumble motors. Try not to let them dangle by their wires while working.
Next we are going to remove the trigger caps. Use a T6 bit for this.
Remove the screws on the backsides of the caps and just gently push the plastic around the trigger from the outside towards the inside
Be careful of the small gray rumble motors. Try not to let them dangle by their wires while working.
Step 8
Removing the Bluetooth antennas
- To remove the motherboard (top one) we first disconnect the Bluetooth antennas. We do this by slowly lifting up the connectors on the side of the motherboard.
To remove the motherboard (top one) we first disconnect the Bluetooth antennas. We do this by slowly lifting up the connectors on the side of the motherboard.
Step 9
Removing the rumble motors
- Now remove the big rumble motors by pushing a little plastic piece back and lifting the motor up (remember to minimize strain on the wires).
- Next we need to remove the little rumble motors in the triggers from the top, just make sure the wires aren’t connected to the chassis anymore.
Now remove the big rumble motors by pushing a little plastic piece back and lifting the motor up (remember to minimize strain on the wires).
Next we need to remove the little rumble motors in the triggers from the top, just make sure the wires aren’t connected to the chassis anymore.
Step 10
Removing the motherboard
- Next we remove the two screws in the bottom corners (using T6 bit). Next we can lift the motherboard up. NOTE that the 3.5mm jack is not soldered and just sandwiched between the two boards.
- When assembling the device note that the multiple metal pieces on the 3.5mm go towards the motherboard.
- For removing the motherboard just simply lift it from one of the corners without bending it too much. (sorry the camera was out of focus)
Next we remove the two screws in the bottom corners (using T6 bit). Next we can lift the motherboard up. NOTE that the 3.5mm jack is not soldered and just sandwiched between the two boards.
When assembling the device note that the multiple metal pieces on the 3.5mm go towards the motherboard.
For removing the motherboard just simply lift it from one of the corners without bending it too much. (sorry the camera was out of focus)
Step 11
Removing the daughter plate
- Now we remove the last six screws (still T6). After those you can lift the daughter board. The buttons will be loose after removing, so take care not to lose them.
- Remove the buttons before flipping the controller chassis
- Buttons are keyed to ensure they are in the right position and orientation. Check placement if one doesn’t seem to fit.
Now we remove the last six screws (still T6). After those you can lift the daughter board. The buttons will be loose after removing, so take care not to lose them.
Remove the buttons before flipping the controller chassis
Buttons are keyed to ensure they are in the right position and orientation. Check placement if one doesn’t seem to fit.
Step 12
Tips for assembly
- When assembling, these might be nice to know. When placing the big rumble motors, place the plectrum in first so it just slides in.
- When the daugtherboard is placed back in the chassis, check if all the buttons work(exepct B that goes to the mother).
- (It took me a second to find that my Y was dislodged because the controller was resting on it, that meant I couldn’t press it and couldn’t pull the RT all the way down, so I had to go back some steps).
- When putting back the D-pad ring, make sure the top is sitting deep enough or you could run into trouble.
- When placing the wires back for the trigger rumble motors… just put on some good music and try to keep you patience.
- Please when you are almost done and only need to put the side plates (step 2) check before finishing if everything works. You can easily do this using this link https://gamepad-tester.com/
When assembling, these might be nice to know. When placing the big rumble motors, place the plectrum in first so it just slides in.
When the daugtherboard is placed back in the chassis, check if all the buttons work(exepct B that goes to the mother).
(It took me a second to find that my Y was dislodged because the controller was resting on it, that meant I couldn’t press it and couldn’t pull the RT all the way down, so I had to go back some steps).
When putting back the D-pad ring, make sure the top is sitting deep enough or you could run into trouble.
When placing the wires back for the trigger rumble motors… just put on some good music and try to keep you patience.
Please when you are almost done and only need to put the side plates (step 2) check before finishing if everything works. You can easily do this using this link https://gamepad-tester.com/
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
This was my first guide so i hope i was clear enough, good luck and most of all have fun!
*PS the stock image of the thumbs up is a copyright free picture from pixabay
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yoeri
Member since: 03/03/2022
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Maurene - Apr 9, 2022
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The motherboard is a printed circuit board and foundation of a computer that is the biggest board in a computer chassis. It allocates power and allows communication to and between the CPU, RAM, and all other computer hardware components. https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Xbox+One+Wi...+resultsFull+Disassembly/148234
Thanks
Ryn S - Jun 27, 2022
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Nicely done! Thanks! I submitted some changes just to clean up formatting, spelling, grammar, etc.
Jenny Bee - Jul 13, 2022
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Nice guide, simple but concise!
If anyone wonders some day with the Forza special edition 1914 controller, it has an additional rubberized section like the clipped on side rails. The Forza controller disassembles in the same way as this guide, you do not pry off or remove the additional inner grip strip. The additional inner grip strip is permanently bonded to the bottom shell piece, with no new screws under it or anything.
B Gardiner - 3 days agoJan 21, 2023
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Good guide! Helped me disassemble things to find the bumper strip (LB/RB) LB button wasn’t right. Fixed the support clicking the LB switch and reassembled it. My nephew should be happy about it being fixed and I now know that if the repair doesn’t hold what part needs replacing! Thank you!