Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

10

Time Required

                          30 minutes - 2 hours

Sections

1

  • Thermal Fuse 115°C (AUPO P2-3A-F)
  • 10 steps

Flags

2

In Progress

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Introduction

In fact, it turned out that this type of demise was not the exception but the rule for this model. My device with 5 years of (intense) use was damn late with the demise. Most devices probably didn’t last more than a few uses or weeks.

Anyway, someone in a review knew the solution I had to try right away. And since these repair instructions cannot be found here yet, I would like to share them with you.

PS: You can think what you want about this model and its “speed levels” from fast to incredibly fast. My suspicion why our “Föhn” (so named because of the background noise and the exhaust air) lasted so long is that it was used a lot, but mainly for batter or pancake batter or similar. Firmer batter is probably only tolerable for a short time .

What you need

Step 1

              Opening the case
  • There are three hurdles to be overcome to open the case:
    1. Remove the screw covers marked with a red arrow in the 1st picture. These are only plugged in, but extremely difficult to grasp. With luck and feeling you can do this with the Jimmy, alternatively with a kitchen knife.
  • In desperation, unfold a paper clip, moderately heat one end in the flame of a lighter or candle, insert into the plastic, wait for it to cool, and use it to pull the plastic out.
  • Whichever variant you choose, afterwards the case is usually at least scratched.

There are three hurdles to be overcome to open the case:

  1. Remove the screw covers marked with a red arrow in the 1st picture. These are only plugged in, but extremely difficult to grasp. With luck and feeling you can do this with the Jimmy, alternatively with a kitchen knife.

In desperation, unfold a paper clip, moderately heat one end in the flame of a lighter or candle, insert into the plastic, wait for it to cool, and use it to pull the plastic out.

Whichever variant you choose, afterwards the case is usually at least scratched.

1024

Step 2

              Remove the triangle screws
    1. Unscrew the triangular screws on the back (red frame) and remove the back cover.
  1. Unscrew the triangular screws on the back (red frame) and remove the back cover.

Step 3

              Remove the Metal Ring
    1. Peel off the metal ring. For me it went down well with a moderate pull without much turning. According to the Internet, this step can also cause despair.
  • As you can see in the picture, the nose (red frame) doesn’t necessarily make turning easier.
  • If an even pull doesn’t help, the combination of a slotted screwdriver in the groove and a hammer in the appropriate direction has helped for some.
  1. Peel off the metal ring. For me it went down well with a moderate pull without much turning. According to the Internet, this step can also cause despair.

As you can see in the picture, the nose (red frame) doesn’t necessarily make turning easier.

If an even pull doesn’t help, the combination of a slotted screwdriver in the groove and a hammer in the appropriate direction has helped for some.

Step 4

              Loosening the Phillips screws
  • After we have mastered the 3 previous steps, the matter is now relatively simple: Loosen all 4 exposed screws.
  • The inner workings are revealed.

After we have mastered the 3 previous steps, the matter is now relatively simple: Loosen all 4 exposed screws.

The inner workings are revealed.

Step 5

              Expose thermal fuse
  • Carefully cut through the yellow adhesive tape (on the transformer?) with a knife or scissors etc. and fold outwards. The white component (red frame in Figure 1) is the target of the search.
  • Take the thermal fuse out from under the cables and expose the soldered ends (green frames in Figure 2).
  • To expose the soldering point at the top in the picture, the black shrink tubing must be slit open (with a knife, scalpel, etc.)
  • Be careful not to damage the cables in the shrink tubing (blue frame)!

Carefully cut through the yellow adhesive tape (on the transformer?) with a knife or scissors etc. and fold outwards. The white component (red frame in Figure 1) is the target of the search.

Take the thermal fuse out from under the cables and expose the soldered ends (green frames in Figure 2).

To expose the soldering point at the top in the picture, the black shrink tubing must be slit open (with a knife, scalpel, etc.)

Be careful not to damage the cables in the shrink tubing (blue frame)!

Step 6

              Remove old thermal fuse
  • I - as I said, an electronics layman - followed the motto here: break as little as possible and leave everything as you found it. Specifically, I unwound the soldered copper wires from the wires of the fuse using sturdy tweezers and fingernails (red frames).
  • People who have more knowledge or less patience may know better whether you can simply unclip the wires with the wire cutters. I was more comfortable with unwinding.

I - as I said, an electronics layman - followed the motto here: break as little as possible and leave everything as you found it. Specifically, I unwound the soldered copper wires from the wires of the fuse using sturdy tweezers and fingernails (red frames).

People who have more knowledge or less patience may know better whether you can simply unclip the wires with the wire cutters. I was more comfortable with unwinding.

Step 7

              Wire in a new fuse
  • Pre-bend the new fuse (picture 1), pull the rubber hoses back on (they’ll be good for something, even if there’s only adhesive tape around them. ;-) )
  • Reconstruction: Wrap the copper wires to the fuse as it was on the old one (red frames).

Pre-bend the new fuse (picture 1), pull the rubber hoses back on (they’ll be good for something, even if there’s only adhesive tape around them. ;-) )

Reconstruction: Wrap the copper wires to the fuse as it was on the old one (red frames).

Step 8

              ... and soldering the fuse
  • After soldering, it can look like mine (inexperienced first-time solderer): not nice, but useful.
  • In the absence of shrink tubing, I simply put the upper end in the picture back into the old shrink tubing. So far it works. ;-)

After soldering, it can look like mine (inexperienced first-time solderer): not nice, but useful.

In the absence of shrink tubing, I simply put the upper end in the picture back into the old shrink tubing. So far it works. ;-)

Step 9

              Stow the fuse and secure with tape
  • After repositioning the fuse, I resealed the old tape with commercial electrical tape in case it served a purpose.

After repositioning the fuse, I resealed the old tape with commercial electrical tape in case it served a purpose.

Step 10

              Assembly
  • The electronic repair is now complete. Now it remains to put the case back together. To do this, reverse steps 1-4.
  • Another photo of the screws if you are interested in replacement or exchange in advance.

The electronic repair is now complete. Now it remains to put the case back together. To do this, reverse steps 1-4.

Another photo of the screws if you are interested in replacement or exchange in advance.

Have fun with your intact hand mixer/hand mixer

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                    Hauke

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